A new trend in lolita photo shoots was mentioned in the last two posts on the notorious LJ lolita site Behind the Bows (1) (2) (3). We have already met Christian religious symbols in lolita fashion as patterns on dresses, crosses and rosettes of gothic windows to be precise. The pioneer of this trend was a brand focusing on the lolita substyle gothic called Moi Même Moitié founded by famous Japanese musician Mana. Maybe one year ago I encountered an accessory, a headband mimicking a gloriole, handmade by a lady just for herself and a few friends who did not sell these although there were a few gloriole covet lolitas.
V posledních dvou příspěvcích na nechvalně proslulé LJ lolití stránce Behind the Bows byl zmíněn nový trend, který se začíná v lolitích photoshootech etablovat (1) (2) (3). Křesťanské náboženské symboly jsme dosud v lolitě potkávali jen ve formě potisků, konkrétně šlo o kříže a rozety gotických oken. Průkopníkem tohoto trendu byla značka Moi Même Moitié, založená slavným japonským hudebníkem Manou, specializující se na lolití podstyl gothic. Pak se asi před rokem ojediněle objevil doplněk, který připomínal svatozář. Šlo o čelenku, kterou si slečna vyrobila pro sebe a pár přátel, ale dále nestála o jejich prodej, ačkoliv se několik svatozáře chtivých lolit našlo.
Mantillas seem to be the newest trend now. Mantilla is a lace veil that women use to hide their hair and that flows down on her shoulders and to her waist. Mantilla originated in Spain during the 16th century. Some sources think that the mantilla was inspired by the Muslim tradition of women wearing a veil, because the Arabs were geographically very close to the Spain, they were even controlling the south of Spain, Granada, until the 15th century.
Nejnovějším trendem v lolitím světě se teď zdají být mantily. Mantila je krajkovaný závoj, kterým si žena zakrývá vlasy a splývá jí přes ramena k pasu. Mantila je původem ze Španělska, kde se objevila během 16. století. Některé zdroje hledají původ mantily v muslimské tradici zahalování žen, protože Arabové byli Španělsku geograficky blízko, do 15. století dokonce jih Španělska, Granadu, měli v držení.
A big promoter of mantillas was the queen Isabella II of Spain (19th century), but after her death they almost disappeared from the everyday fashion. A big special comb, peineta, was worn under the mantilla. It gave some volume to the wearer´s hair and it also added the wearer some height. Peinetas were traditionally made of tortoise shells which gave them their arched shape.
Velkou propagátorkou mantil byla královna Isabela II. Španělská (19. století), po jejímž skonu mantily z každodenní módy téměř vymizely. Ve Španělsku se pod mantilou nosil speciální velký hřeben, peineta, který dodával účesu zdání objemu a celé postavě zdání výšky. Peinety byly tradičně vyráběny z želvích krunýřů, které hřebenům dodávaly jejich klenutý tvar.
The fact that Spain was traditionally a Roman Catholic country is the reason why mantillas started to be associated with the Roman Catholicism. In these days mantillas are worn during important celebrations (wedding), when wearing a folklore clothes or when visiting the Pope. The protocol requires that women who are believers cover their head when visiting the Pope. The haters of this mantilla trend can now only wait for it to end the same way the antlers did, while the lovers can now enjoy wearing them. But what colour of mantilla should you choose? During most of the events a black mantilla is suitable, because the white one is for brides and for Catholic queens visiting the Pope.
Vzhledem k tomu, že Španělsko bylo tradičně silně římsko-katolickou zemí, začaly být mantily spojovány s římsko-katolickou vírou. V současnosti je nošení mantily spojeno s významnými událostmi (svatba), kroji, anebo právě s návštěvou papeže. Protokol totiž vyžaduje, aby věřící ženy měly při audienci u papeže pokrývku hlavy. Stejně jako v případě parůžků se odpůrci mantil mohou těšit, až tento trend pomine, zatímco jejich příznivci si jich budou užívat do sytosti. Ale jakou barvu mantily si vybrat? Ve většině případů se nosí černá mantila, protože bílá je vyhrazena pro nevěsty a pro katolické královny při audienci u papeže.
This post was also published on EGL (where an interesting debate with further info about mantillas developed) and on Lolita centrála.
This post was also published on EGL (where an interesting debate with further info about mantillas developed) and on Lolita centrála.
An interesting trend. I never thought that kind of thing could be popular
ReplyDeleteI know this is a super-late reply, but I decided to post anyway, for anyone who might find it relevant. I am a devout Catholic and I wear mantilla in mass. I don't find it at all offensive if a lolita wears one as a fashion accessory. First of all, it's really just a piece of cloth/lace and doesn't mean or signify anything in and of itself. Even if a lolita got one in a thrift-store that was already blessed/consecrated, a mantilla is still what the wearer makes of it, whether that be a sign of devotion to God or simply a cute headdress... and also, how would the lolita in question have known?
ReplyDeleteOn top of that, lolita is a Japanese fashion and Japanese (pop) culture has always had a very... shall we say, open relationship with Christianity in general and Catholicism in particular. They use visual elements from it as decoration in fashion, manga and anime, and even ceremonies like weddings, even when the couple isn't Christian at all. And hasn't our culture done the same with Japanese culture, from the Japonisme of the 19th century where a lot of furniture and fashion were Japanese-inspired (some of those still being with us, like bath robes aka kimono, as well as the whole field of modernist architecture), to trends like wearing chopsticks in a bun for a "geisha look", to people having random kanji as tattoos or on shirts, to modern animated shows having anime-inspired or anime-informed styles?
In many East Asian cultures, imitation is seen as the highest form of flattery, which is one of the reasons why bootleg industries are so rampant in China. Japanese women like it when Western women wear kimono, because they see it as a compliment, as saying: "Your clothing is beautiful!" So why would it be weird if Japanese women (and by extension, Western women adapting Japanese womens' fashions) wore Western clothes, even if it's something as unusual as a mantilla? I say, as long as something doesn't have an explicit cultural taboo (like Native American headdresses that can only be worn by chieftains or medicine men), wear what you want.
Also, actually a white mantilla is worn by virgins (or at least unmarried women) and a black mantilla is worn by married women. Nowadays though, mantillas in other colours are usually seen as fine, too. Visiting the Pope is the only exception and all women except queens are expected to wear black mantillas.
As a side note, can someone please design a boystyle outfit inspired by the habits of Passionist monks? These things look like they are the school uniform of Catholic Hogwarts.
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